The week’s #ABSee link party topic is “ingredients”, and I’ve been racking my brain trying to decide which ingredient to feature when I suddenly remembered my beloved Dr. Wu Intensive Renewal Serum with Mandelic Acid, and that’s when I had my AHA (totally unintended pun but I LOVE IT) moment.
What is mandelic acid?
Derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid is an AHA, similar to the more commonly seen glycolic acid and lactic acid. When used in moderation, AHAs can accelerate skin cell turnover and improve your skin texture. They can also diminish the appearance of fine lines, and even boost collagen production! So what makes mandelic acid different, and a superior AHA in my opinion?
- It’s just as effective as the popular glycolic acid for treating fine lines and sun damages, but it’s much gentler on the skin.
- It contains anti-bacterial properties that make it suitable for acne-prone skin (source), and can even help treat acne when combined with salicyclic acid.
- It’s also anti-inflammatory and can actually help your skin’s recovery process, making it a common treatment following laser surgery.
- It’s oil soluble, which means it can actually get deep into your pores and help unclog them. Typically you’d rely on a BHA for this, so it’s like killing 2 birds with 1 stone!
Reusing an old photo because this is what happens when you’re packing last minute and don’t have time to take new ones
In a nutshell, mandelic acid has all the benefits of common AHAs, but very little of the negatives (source). As with any other AHA, it’s always possible to over-exfoliate, but the chances of mandelic acid irritating your skin are much, much lower. For some reason it’s not as popular in the West (though that’s slowly changing), but it’s the most commonly used AHA in Taiwan.
6 Products with Mandelic Acid
Because I have an aversion towards most Western AHA/BHA formulas (what’s up with the stickiness?), I will only feature Asian products. Or rather, Taiwanese products because we love our mandelic acid!
- Dr. Wu Intensive Renewal Serum with Mandelic Acid – 6%, 18%
2 months later and I’m still mourning over breaking this bottle. I had the 18%, which sounds high, but it’s seriously the most gentle AHA I’ve ever used. No stinging and redness whatsoever. It’s also not sticky at all, something western AHA/BHAs seem to be notorious for, and why I’ve started avoiding them. The best part is that it made my skin super smooth!
**also available on BGO, MyHuo, and eBay - Naruko DermaLane Intensive Brightening Renewal Treatment Mandelic Acid 20%
I haven’t tried this one yet, but this contains a slew of other brightening (niacinamide and transexamic acid) and moisturizing (hyaluronic acid and panthenol) ingredients. It’s more expensive than the Dr. Wu serum, but Naruko frequently has sales + gifts with purchase, and shipping is always free for orders $40+! - Naruko AMPM Total Brightening Renewal Treatment Mandelic Acid 5%
This is the little brother of #2. It contains a much lower dosage and is combined with 5% gluconolactone, an extremely gentle AHA with hydrating properties. It’s very similar #2 in all other aspects, so if you’re nervous about trying mandelic acid or have super sensitive skin, you may want to start with this one. - My Scheming Mandelic Acid Brightening Silk Facial Mask
I love My Scheming silk masks – they’re super thin, full of essence, and they really do brighten the skin! Since mandelic acid is so gentle (and the dosage for the mask is also really low), you don’t have to worry about this irritating your skin.
**also available on BGO, MyHuo, and eBay - Dr. Hsieh Mandelic Acid Home Peeling Liquid – 5%, 10%, 20%, 25%
Taiwanese brands love using “Dr.” in their name! This comes in 4 different strengths, and the 5%-20% ones are actually gentle enough for daily use. The serum also contains various plant extracts that help minimize any potential irritation and brighten your skin.
**also available on eBay - Dr. Douxi Mandelic Acid Essence – 5%, 10%, 18%, 30%
This version contains hyaluronic acid and urea for extra hydrating properties, plus menthol extract to help control sebum production. I’m not sure how I feel about menthol in skincare as I know that can be irritating for some, but if you like the cooling sensation this is worth a look.
**also available on BGO, MyHuo, and eBay
Of the above, I’ve only used the Dr. Wu version, but I’ve read positive reviews for the other ones in the /r/asianbeaty forum. Also, Dr. Hsieh, Dr. Douxi, and Dr. Wu all carry an entire line of products featuring mandelic acid – from cleansers to creams, in case you get the mandelic acid itch. However to really see some results I would still recommend incorporating one of the above serums in your routine.
I will be stocking up on these essences/serums when I go back to Taiwan in a few days, so expect a comparison review in the future! With that said, I will be on vacation visiting the holy trinity of Asian Skincare – Japan, Taiwan, and South Korea, so no blog updates for the next 3 weeks. Make sure to follow me on Instagram or Twitter for daily updates!
Do you wear the mandelic acid before or after toner?
All actives, like mandelic acid, should go before toner. The only exception is if your toner contains actives itself (e.g. glycolic acid in the Pixi Glow Tonic), then the mandelic acid would go after.
Hi Jenny,
I’m really glad I’ve got to know your blog since I had no knowledge of what mandelic acid was before, and I’m always happy to learn more!
Is there any info about the ph level of the Dr. Wu’s and of Dr. Hsieh’s products you’ve mentioned?
Also, have you tried Naruko’s already? I saw it was in Fiddy’s (fifty shades of snail) beauty stash….
Hi Zoe, thank you so much for your comment! So glad you found this post helpful!
I just did a ph test on my Dr.Wu 18% mandelic acid and it’s about 2.5. The Dr.Hsieh mandelic acids are at 3.8 according to their blog post.
Unfortunately I’ve yet to try Naruko’s mandelic acid because I prefer something stronger. However, I may try it in the future after I finish my current Dr. Wu bottle :)
first off, have i mentioned how much your blog helps in educating readers about skincare? i find myself constantly waiting for new posts on your blog since i’m starting to be a skincare junkie right now :P i always learn new stuff here! before this, i wouldn’t know what’s mandelic acid! i couldn’t even differentiate physical and chemical exfoliator before x__x
hm, the only AHA BHA product i used is Asian (yayhadalabopfft) so i didn’t know that western ones tend to be sticky? new information there. i can’t wait to see what you hauled from japan tbh! xD
Seriously, THANK YOU for your comment, you have no idea how much it cheered me up when I read it! And I’m so excited that I’m converting people to becoming skincare junkies, haha! It’s a learning process for all of us and the more that join the journey, the better :D
Does hada labo have AHA/BHA products? I think one of their cleanser mentions AHA/BHA, but I don’t think the pH level is low enough for the acids to work correctly. But yes, from my experience, Asian exfoliants tend to feel much better on the skin, probably because they need to account for the humid climate in Asia. I shall try to post my Japan haul soon – I’m still trying to organize all my stuff, I think I bought too much? Haha
AHA moment!!! ::slaps knees:: Mandelic acid is definitely one of those things that I’ve been meaning to seriously try because I see it in so many Taiwanese products (and in MUAC peels!). Sounds almost too good to be true, but all those doctors (Wu, Hsieh, etc.) can’t be wrong, right? :*D Have a great time in Asia!
LOL, I’m glad someone appreciates the pun! XD Honestly after trying random AHAs, BHAs, and even Curology, I think I still love my Dr. Wu mandelic acid the best. I bought a 50ml bottle in Taiwan and am looking forward to using that once I’m done with my current Curology prescription!
Really great overview of mandelic acid! I feel like it’s one of those totally underrated ingredients. That My Scheming mask is one of my favorites—it absolutely works, and even helped to clear a breakout, sort of. :)
Thank you Lily! I agree, I wonder why it’s not used more widely. I tried to find that My Scheming mask during my trip back to Taiwan, but I couldn’t :( At least I got a large bottle of the Dr. Wu 18%!
I’m always on the lookout for new skin care products to try. I never had much of an issues (besides occasional acne) but as I get older I notice the strangest things on my face. Like this weird redness that puffs up just slightly from time to time on like the bridge of my nose and my cheeks. I also notice how huge my pores are ): Thanks for the list of things to try for smoothing out and stuff. I will have to look into them soon.
Ah the woes of getting older :( Mandelic acid (or any other chemical exfoliants) should really help with the pore visibility. Good luck!
I’m waiting for my friend to send me some of her mandelic acid products to try!! I’ve only tried the myscheming mask with mandelic acid so far. But this post has me pumped ^_^
Ooo, which products is she sending? Do let me know how you like them!
I am currently using a Mandelic Acid serum and I think my skin doesn’t like it very much. It seems too strong for me and overall my face looks better when I don’t use it than when I do. I will totally keep these My Scheming masks in mind though. I only recently got to try them and now I have 3 boxes at home. xD
Oh no, sorry to hear that :( Which brand of mandelic acid are you using? If the concentration is really high (25% or greater), there’s a chance it’ll still irritate the skin. I would definitely recommend starting at the lowest possible %, and then working your way up based on your skin’s tolerance. The My Scheming masks should have very low mandelic acid %, so hopefully those work better for you!