Alpha lipoic acid (ALA), aka Thioctic Acid, isn’t one of your typical exfoliants, despite having the word “acid” in its name. Instead, it’s a part of our bodies’ natural antioxidant system, and is both water and oil-soluble, making it a versatile (and powerful) skincare ingredient!
Alpha Lipoic Acid’s Benefits for Skin
As an antioxidant, we know Alpha Lipoic Acid’s main role is to protect our skin cells from free radical damage – think UV rays, pollution, and other environmental aggressors. But what do we measure its efficacy as an antioxidant? Luckily several studies have been done with great results:
- A 2003 study found that topical application of 5% ALA significantly improved skin texture and elasticity in participants with photoaged skin.
- A 2017 study found similar results with ALA helping reverse skin damage as a result of smoking, thanks to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.
- A 2019 study found that ALA helped reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and improve skin thickness.
And this all sounds super exciting, but there is one caveat. They also discovered that many people experience a burning or warming feeling on their skin, especially during the first month of using ALA.
Jenny’s thoughts: Definitely a promising antioxidant ingredient with studies to back up its claims, but still a B-lister compared to superstars like vitamin c or niacinamide. I’d also avoid if you have sensitive skin!
Sources
- H Beitner. “Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Double Blind Study on the Clinical Efficacy of a Cream Containing 5%Alpha-Lipoic Acid Related to Photoageing of Facial Skin.” British Journal of Dermatology, vol. 149, no. 4, Oxford University Press, Oct. 2003, pp. 841–49, https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2003.05597.x.
- Kubota, Yoshiki, et al. “Novel Nanocapsule of α-Lipoic Acid Reveals Pigmentation Improvement: α-Lipoic Acid Stimulates the Proliferation and Differentiation of Keratinocyte in Murine Skin by Topical Application.” Experimental Dermatology, vol. 28, Wiley-Blackwell, Jan. 2019, pp. 55–63, https://doi.org/10.1111/exd.13828.
- Funda Yıldırım Baş, et al. “Effect of Alpha Lipoic Acid on Smoking-Induced Skin Damage.” Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 1, Taylor & Francis, Apr. 2016, pp. 67–73, https://doi.org/10.3109/15569527.2016.1154069.
- Maurizio Podda, et al. “Activity of Alpha-Lipoic Acid in the Protection against Oxidative Stress in Skin.” KARGER EBooks, Jan. 2000, pp. 43–51, https://doi.org/10.1159/000060652.
