A while ago, I shared my master vitamin c post where I reviewed the different forms of vitamin c and the products I’ve used with each.
Of the 7 forms, ascorbic acid is the most well researched, effective, but also the most irritating and unstable. It’s also the form I’ve had the least success with until I tried The Inkey List Vitamin C 30% Serum.
Key Points
- Uses a water-less formula which keeps the vitamin c fresh and prevents it from quickly oxidizing
- High vitamin c % requires diluting, either with a serum or a moisturizer
- Delivers noticeable brightening results with continued use!
Overview
What is it
Formulated with 30% pure L-ascorbic Acid, this serum helps skin appear brighter and target signs of aging whilst also helping to protect against free radicals and pollution.
How I use it
In the pm after cleansing and toning, I mix a pea size of this serum with The Inkey List HA Serum. You can also mix this with a moisturizer, but definitely mix it with something. I then follow up with a soothing + hydrating serum and/or facial oil to minimize irritations because 30% AA is no joke. I do not use this every day.
Best suited for
All skin types except sensitive that want an affordable + effective vitamin c that won’t quickly oxidize. Super sensitive skin types might find the 30% ascorbic acid too harsh even when mixed.
Key Ingredients
Dimethicone, Ascorbic Acid, Polysilicone-11, Peg-10 Dimethicone.
full ingredient analysis
Things to note
Alcoho-free and fragrance-free. Ascorbic acid itself in high % (above 10) will irritate sensitive skin, and this packs a whopping 30%.
Packaging
An opaque plastic tube with minimal black & white packaging. Basic but protects the vitamin c from light and air well and makes it easy to dispense the correct amount of product.
Scent
None. Maybe a faint plastic-y kinda smell which I assume is what vitamin c smells like? Better than hot dog water!
Texture
A lightweight cream that feels like a silicone primer due to the dimethicone base. Personally I find it very easy to apply and comfortable on the skin with no pilling.
Finish
A velvet finish with zero stickiness, it’s almost as if you applied a primer!
Where to buy
£7.99 – $9.99 for 1oz/30ml at Sephora, CultBeauty, FeelUnique, Inkey List Official
![Skincare favorite: The Inkey List Vitamin C Serum](https://www.geekyposh.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/the-inkey-list-vitamin-c-serum-1.jpg)
Usage experience
While you can absolutely use this alone, after reading Anne’s review, I definitely wasn’t risking it and always mixed it with The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Serum.
Despite my hesitations about ascorbic acid for my skin (ie. it only seems to irritate and rarely deliver results, don’t ask why), the first impression of this vitamin c + hyaluronic acid emulsion was positive: minimal irritations, absorbs quickly, and no sticky finish!
Typical vitamin c usage directions will recommend using it in the morning for an antioxidant boost to protect against UV rays, however I noticed a significant brightening result when I used this in the evening.
Now according to dermatologist Dr. Shannon Humphrey, vitamin c can have an effect on the skin for 24 hours so it should be effective no matter when you apply it, but another study showed that re-application every 8 hours is required for adequate photo-protection.
Something else to consider: While The Inkey List Vitamin C isn’t irritating when mixed, between chemical/physical exfoliants and retinol, I do not apply this daily. Instead I alternate this with my retinol and acids, meaning that only one active is ever used on a given day.
When testing this I was using it daily (no other acids or retinol), but in my regular routine I use this about 2-3 times a week.
To get my daily vitamin c dosage, I’ve been using serum with stabilized vitamin c derivatives that’s gentler on the skin. It’s not as potent as ascorbic acid, but you won’t risk damaging your skin barrier. You can find a list of options here or use an antioxidant serum that contains vitamin c.
Another solution is to increase the ratio of HA serum to Vitamin C when you mix them, but remember, this is a 30% ascorbic acid so even a small amount will still be pretty potent. Less is more!
![Skincare favorite: The Inkey List Vitamin C Serum](png/the-inkey-list-vitamin-c-texture.png)
Final Verdict
- Packaging9/10
- Ingredients9/10
- Texture/Application9/10
- Performance9.5/10
- Price10/10
This might be the strongest ascorbic acid vitamin c I've tried, but when used correctly, it''s been the least irritating and most effective. If you struggle with finding a vitamin c serum that actually brightens your skin and doesn't oxidize after a few weeks, this is definitely worth trying, especially for the low price.
You do need to mix this with another product because it's just too strong when used alone, but luckily The Inkey List offers an affordable HA serum, or you could use your own. I will definitely be repurchasing this one in the future!
Hi Jenny, my questions is “can I keep my Inkey List Vitamin C in my beauty fridge?” thanks so much.
Hi Rae, since this is a waterless vitamin c you really don’t need to refrigerate it to keep it fresh. I know that for creams (which this one is), putting them in the fridge can sometimes cause the formulas to separate, doing more damage than good. So I personally wouldn’t, but you can always check with Inkeylist to confirm!
Even better than DE C-Firma? Do tell!
I’m using the DE C-Firma now, and so far yes, I prefer The Inkey List, especially for the price!
Good to know! I’m always looking to make my beauty dollar stretch a little farther!
I really need to get into Vitamin C products x
Lisa | lisaautumn.com
You have totally sold this serum to me! I like the Pixi Vitamin C serum but it turns dark brown so quickly, so I always end up binning it before I’m even two thirds through the bottle so this would be a much better alternative and more affordable too = win! xo
Makeup Muddle
Ugh yes it’s always so annoying when the product oxidizes before you can finish it, and you definitely don’t want to take things too fast with vitamin c either. This one has lasted me a while now and it’s still fresh!
You know how I feel about this one (thank you for the link), and the mixing was too much of a hassle for me. I am currently testing their Vitamin C + EGF one, have you tried that? It is a Vitamin C derivative, but very nice in texture.
Anne from Doctor Anne
I actually enjoy mixing products so it’s no hassle for me at all! I haven’t tried their new serum yet but the inclusion of EGF is interesting! Which derivative is it?
Brilliant review, Jenny and this is definitely in my list to buy once I am done with my other Vitamin C serums.
These products sound great!!
Jennifer
Effortlessly Sophisticated