I feel like it’s not officially summer until I write a post about sunscreen and sun protection. It goes without saying that sunscreen is super important and that you should apply it every morning, but is the sunscreen you’re using fully protecting you from effects of sun damage?
You’re probably familiar with SPF ratings – it tells us how well the sunscreen protects us against UVB, the rays responsible for causing sunburns. The higher the SPF, the longer we’re able to stay in the sun before our skin start burning. UVB can also contribute towards photoaging (think wrinles and dark spots) and tanning, but the primary culprit? UVA rays. In other words, UVA protection is the key to keeping your skin spot and wrinkle-free!
image courtesy of the American Cancer Society
That’s not to say UVB protection isn’t important, but too many sunscreens emphasize UVB protection with their SPF100 ratings and brush off UVA protection with a simple “broad spectrum” label. NOT cool. Luckily Asian and European sunscreens recognize the importance of UVA protection, so you’ll typically see a PA or PPD rating on those. Here’s a conversion chart between the 2 UVA protection ratings:
PA+ = PPD 2-4
PA++ = PPD 4-8
PA+++ = PPD 8-16
PA++++ = PPD 16 and higher
*For “broad spectrum” sunscreens, you can get an idea of the UVA protection by plugging the UV filters & their % in sunscreen simulator. The projected results is by no means 100% accurate, but it gives you an idea of the range.
So why is it important to know a sunscreen’s UVA protection rating? Because unlike UVB rays, UVA are long rays that can penetrate clouds and glass, so your skin is at risk for wrinkles/dark spots/tanning even when its cloudy or you’re indoors (source). So while SPF50 isn’t necessary for everyday use, PA++++/PDD 16+ is definitely the rating you’ll want to look for. PA+/PA++ isn’t even worth it in my opinion. It’s like seeing SPF10 on products – like why is that even there? It serves no friggin purpose! *rants*
Current sunscreen stash & mini reviews
Now that we’ve talked about the importance of UVA protection, let’s talk sunscreens. I currently have 3 in my skincare wardrobe, 1 that I love, 1 that I like, and 1 that I want to love, but hate.
- La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL SPF50+ Fluid Ultra-Light PPD38
This is my “outdoors” sunscreen that I’ll use when I know I’ll be out for more than 1 hour. It has a whopping PPD38, which I can only imagine would be PA++++++? YES, GIVE IT TO ME. For a non-Japanese sunscreen with such high protection, it’s surprisingly light. It has a liquid texture that leaves a somewhat shiny finish, but it’s not greasy or heavy at all for my combo skin. Mind you this is NOT the US version, which uses a different set of chemical UV filters and has a lower PPD (28). This is the European/Asian version that contains Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL which work together to offer superior UVA protection (source). - Kanebo Allie Extra UV Gel Mineral Moist Neo SPF50+ PA++++
This has the light yet hydrating texture typical of most Japanese sunscreens, though it’s definitely not as refreshing as the Biore UV Aqua Watery Essence. It contains physical and chemical UV filters, and while it doesn’t leave a white cast, it does leave a shiny finish. This definitely keeps me from tanning and new dark spots from forming, so you know the UVA protection is strong with this one. - Naruko All-in-One High Potency Sunscreen Complex SPF30 PA+++
This was supposed to be my everyday sunscreen, and while it had a light texture, it pilled way too easily. I use this exclusively for my neck and arms now, so at least it’s not a total waste.
Overall I think Japanese sunscreens with PA++++ are still the most comfortable and affordable ones out there, but if you really want some serious UVA protection, European sunscreens (esp. La Roche-Posay) are worth looking into. As for those “broad spectrum” sunscreens they sell in the US, you can try asking the brand to see if they can provide a PPD rating or using the sunscreen simulator, but personally I’d pass on those.
Let’s Chat!
Do you have a favorite sunscreen that’s protected your skin from photoaging? I’m always looking for the next best product to try out (because I have difficulty staying faithful like that), so recommendations are always welcome!
Nice article! What’s the rating in PA would you consider “broad spectrum”? Since you mentioned that “PA+/PA++ isn’t even worth”
Does it mean sunscreen with PA+++ and above is broad spectrum?
PA and broad spectrum measure two different aspects of UVA protection, so one rating has no bearing on the other. I explain it in detail here: http://geekyposh.nogbcgugjh-eqg35pyl14xn.p.runcloud.link/your-ultimate-sunscreen-guide/
Hi Jenny,
I’m using La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL SPF50+ Fluid Ultra-Light based on your recommendation.
I’ve noticed a shine to my face when wearing this sunscreen. Is there any type of product you can recommend to combat this shine?
I tried the anti-shine version of the sunscreen but find it leaves white marks and doesn’t feel that good on the skin.
So i was hoping you could recommend something that a male could use perhaps on top of the sunscreen so my face isn’t so shiny?
Thanks!
Hi John, I reviewed the $4 Althea Petal Velvet Powder, which was really good at shine control, but the pink packaging might not be to your liking. The Rimmel Stay Matte Powder is another affordable powder and has great reviews, so it’s worth checking out. Another option is misting your face with the La Roche Posay Serozinc mist, I’ve also heard good things about this one’s oil control abilities. I personally haven’t tried the latter 2 products myself, since I actually prefer a dewy finish. Hope this helps!
Oh wow. Thanks for your amazing post explaining it all. I wear sunblock everyday but I’ve never paid any attention to UVA. I use a Japanese sun cream so I’m going to check it when I’m home. Hopefully it’s good enough else I’m going to invest in a new sunblock.
I wear sunscreen everyday specifically for the UVA protection! Japanese sunscreens are some of the best when it comes to UVA protection, so chances are you’re good :)
i never thought about purchasing sunscreen since i’m mostly indoor like 80-90% of the time. the only sun exposure that i got was incidental so i never thought i’d need a sunscreen. plus, my bedroom doesn’t have any window so yeap, definitely zero exposure from the sun. i always think that i’ll just rely on my foundation for sun protection since my foundation has SPF in it; but some people have said that SPF in foundations can cause white cast on the face. not sure though because that only happens when they’re taking pictures? or so i’ve heard.
the thought of using moisturizer and sunscreen on my face kinda scares me, like…i don’t want my face to looks greasy after it has been cleansed and feeling squeaky clean! LOL i actually skip moisturizer most of the time too tbh. but after reading your post about how essential it is to include sunscreen in my skincare routine, i’m thinking of trying out skin aqua UV milk sunscreen since it’s drugstore and fairly cheap.
No windows in your room? Well I guess that would be an exception then xD Usually what causes the white case is titanium dioxide, a common physical sunscreen ingredient. If that’s what the foundation uses for SPF, you’ll get the white cast when flash is used. Since foundation SPF is typically low, I doubt there’ll be enough titanium dioxide to cause a white cast in natural lighting.
There are definitely more refreshing sunscreens out there like the Biore Watery Gel, or some of the milky ones which actually dry matte. I wouldn’t recommend skipping moisturizer though, because your skin still needs something to lock the hydration in, especially if you’ve just washed it squeaky clean. Otherwise your face will overproduce oil to compensate for the lack of water, leading to the dreaded greasy skin :/