- What is it
- A concentrated yet lightweight first essence infused with Life Plankton™ to hydrate and renew the skin in as little as 8 days.
- How I use it
- I pour a quarter size amount into my palm and massage into my skin twice a day. For me this is like a first essence/hydrating serum hybrid, so I use it after my Naruko Renewal Miracle Essence.
- Best suited for
- All skin types, especially dry skins that want a more hydrating first essence
- Key ingredients
- 5% Vitreoscilla Ferment – Aka Life Plankton™, which has a lipid structure with a high compatibility to our skin cells. Studies show that it may also have antioxidant properties (source), anti-inflammatory properties (source), and can help repair skin barrier damages (source). This is a trademarked ingredient used exclusively in L’oreal’s brands (eg. Biotherm and La Roche-Posay).
Grape Seed Extract – An excellent antioxidant that can help reverse the signs of environmental damages (source, source, source)
Hyaluronic Acid – A wonderful humectant that can attract and hold an incredible amount of moisture. The gold standard of hydrating ingredients.
Adenosine – When applied topically this can help smooth our skin and decrease the appearance of fine lines (source).
Full ingredient list here. - Irritants
- Free of alcohol and parabens, but it does contain fragrances
- Packaging
- A beautiful blue glass bottle #packaginggoals
- Scent
- A light fresh scent, reminds me of the ocean
- Texture
- Water-like, but with some slip. It’s more hydrating than traditional first essences yet not as thick as traditional hydrating toners (eg. Hada Labo or Klairs Supple Preparation Toner)
- Finish
- A natural finish. Skin feels soft and plump.
- Size & Price
- $65 for 125ml
- Where to buy
- Amazon, Biotherm USA (free shipping) Cosme De (free worldwide shipping)
I have a soft spot for first essences, as they pack the potency of a serum yet they have the lightweight texture of a toner. Many first essences often contain fermented extracts, and the Biotherm Life Plankton Essence is no exception. But instead of a yeast-based extract, this uses vitreoscilla ferment, which is the fermented extract of bacteria that grows in thermal spa waters (source). If you read my La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Moisturizer review you’ll recall that the star ingredient – thermal spa water – is naturally full of prebiotics and minerals that can strengthen and soothe our skin’s barrier, and vitreoscilla ferment is one of the many components that add to the water’s benefits.
Thanks to its elegant packaging, soothing ocean-like fragrance, and lightweight texture, this essence is a joy to use, especially when my skin is on the drier side. If you have oily or combo skin you’ll want to either decrease the amount used or skip your hydrating serum as this does a great job hydrating already. My skin is always left softer and more hydrated after using this in my routine, and I rarely feel the need to use a hydrating serum when I use this. As long as I keep my routine simple, I don’t need to worry about my skin feeling sticky or subsequent products pilling as this absorbs almost instantly.
While using this product has been a delight and it does a great job of adding extra hydration to my skin, I didn’t experience the miraculous renewal of my skin as claimed by the product. As a matter of fact, I haven’t noticed any long term results that’s made me go “WOW, I need to keep this product in my routine”, which really is the most important part!
- Packaging9/10
- Ingredients8/10
- Texture/Application8.5/10
- Performance6.5/10
- Price6.5/10
For the high price I had high expectations, and while this did not disappoint in its packaging and usage experience, its results fell short. Yes it hydrates well, but so do a lot of products, many which are more affordable. So while the joy factor for the Biotherm Life Plankton Essence was high, personally I will not repurchase this in the future, especially since there are other hydrating serums/toners I'm interested in trying.
Thank you so much for reading, and if you have any questions (or comments) about this product let me know, I’d be happy to answer them for you!
Is it oil free? my skin does not tolerate any oil so if am going to buy it, it has to be oil free..
I’ve linked the ingredient list in the post, and this version does not contain oil. However they have reformulated this product so I recommend checking their official site for the updated ingredient list.
Thanks for the review on this essence. Would like to know whether you could recommend any other more affordable hydrating serums that does the same jobs as this essence as mentioned in this post? Thank you :)
Hi Sara, I shared a few hydrating serums in my Face Serums Guide. One that I really like is the Klairs Soothing Serum, which also contains calming ingredients.
I am a fan of the brand and even got my husband hooked on some of their skincare. However, I know what you mean about expectations being in line with the price we pay for products. I haven’t tried too many essences, mainly just the SK-II which I love, so I’m always interested in reading reviews and recommendations. Any hydrating toners that you’re loving at the moment and would repurchase?
~ Cat L.
http://www.CatsDailyLiving.com
I have the SK-II essence in my stash that I’ll be using as soon as I finish my Naruko one! Did you like anything else from Biotherm? This was the first of their products that I’ve tried, and I’m also curious about their Life Plankton overnight mask.
As for hydrating toners I really enjoy the KLAIRS Supple Preparation Toner which I think I reviewed a while back, but it’s affordable, hydrating, soothing, and not too sticky which is great for my combo skin :)
Now I know why thermal spa waters are so popular haha! At first, I was like wow the results look so good, but weighing in the price I can see what you mean, you could probably get a few serums for that much! xx
Yes! These studies actually make me want to try out more of the thermal water products from La Roche-Posay, as those are definitely in the more affordable price range :)
Your pictures are stunning – these shots belong in a magazine :) I have heard and see this quite a bit lately. I’ve always thought it was a bit gimmicky but it’s good to see your thorough review on it as well! I think I’m sticking with my Ordinary skincare range as that price is a little bit out of the budget for me!
Stephanie | theFantasia.com
Aww thank you so much Stephanie! They definitely try to draw you in with the fancy sounding “life planktons” but at least there were studies that backed their claims…sadly I just didn’t see the results. I agree, definitely lots of better and more affordable options out there!
Hi, got pretty sensitive skin, even after many visit to the dermatologist. Would like to try this product or any similar, what other similar, more affordable, product would you recommend? Could I just stick with the soothing serum and skip this?
I would skip this because it has fragrance. If you have sensitive skin it’s best to keep your routine and the ingredients simple. La Roche Posay is a good brand with gentle products and recently Etude House released their Soon Jung line that also works well for sensitive skin.
100% agree with your review, this product feels nice but I too didn’t see any long term results. It was a waste of money for me and I feel that I could easily get better results with other similar products that are lower in price.
Yeah, I’m surprised at how highly rated this is amongst Taiwanese beauty bloggers (I follow a few of them). I’m still tempted to try the overnight mask in the life plankton line though ????
I get what you mean. I am intrigued by the bottle and the way you describe the application, but there are others, not as pretty, but doing the same job. I might buy it anyway, for the packaging…
Linda, Libra, Loca: Beauty, Baby and Backpacking
It does look very pretty on my bathroom counter, and it might be one of the prettiest bottles I own! Too bad it’s overpriced :(